Pinot noir and Cinsaut

Maiden Vintage

I enjoyed the launch at La Colombe at Constantia Uitsig of a maiden trio of big red wines from Aaldering, a new Dutchowned boutique cellar in Devon Valley in Stellenbosch. 'Balance' is the mantra of winemaker Helene van der Westhuizen (ex-Diemersdal) who made the 2007 vintage of three limited edition wines under the chic new label. The wines are more old- than new- world in terroir and character - a smoky, spicy Shiraz, a Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot blend with cedar aromas and smoky mulberry nuances; and a delightful Pinotage which showcases the variety's lineage.

Five Star Flagship

The annual release of Morgenster's flagship blends at the landmark wine and olive estate in the Helderberg is a highlight on the wine calendar. Morgenster 2006, one of the benchmark Bordeaux-style wines in the Cape, again won a coveted five stars in Platter's South African Wines Guide 2010. The sixth vintage - a seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot - shows great intensity of fruit in a potpourri of black cherries, blackberries and spice. Owner Giulio Bertrand is assisted by Pierre Lurton of Château Cheval Blanc in the evolution of an elegant house-style.

Swartland Blends

Organic grapes grown by Hughes Family Wines on their Swartland farm go into two intriguing new blends. Nativo Red 2006 - an eclectic mix of Shiraz, Pinotage, Merlot and Mour vedre - overlaps Bordeaux , the Rhône and the Cape in a ripe, sumptuous wine which showcases the signature Shiraz variety and terroir of the Swartland. Only 600 cases were made using native wild yeasts from dry land vineyards to accentuate the rich, natural flavours. Nativo White 2009 marries Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Verdelho in a complex wooded blend with mineral tones and a creamy mid-palate.

Family Jewels

Visiting Cuvée restaurant , at Simonsig in Stellenbosch, I enjoyed a vertical tasting of Kaapse Vonkel going back to 1987 from the landmark cellar which released the Cape's first MCC forty years ago. We also tasted the new Simonsig Tiara 2007, a Bordeaux-style blend. Johan Malan says, 'I love the challenge of working with different grape varieties as they allow enormous scope to be creative.' The elegance of the Merlot uplifts the cedar, cigar box nuances of Cabernet , the Petit Verdot adds colour and tannin while Cabernet Franc adds perfumed fruit and gentle fragrance'.

Magical Malts

A whisky tasting evoked memories of a classic malts cruise I did in the Inner Hebrides a few years ago. Under sail in a vintage wooden schooner among a whisky fleet of over 100 yachts, we raced between historic distilleries in the wild west of Scotland - from Oban to Lagavulin on Islay and Talisker on Skye. Once tasted in situ, you never forget the unique origin and sense of place of these rugged island malts - the intense peaty, smoky and seaweed character of Lagavulin 16; and the explosive peppery and seawater saltiness of Talisker 10, two of the world's most famous malts.

Going to the Dogs

Inspired by the motif of the African wild dog - also known as the painted wolf - winemaker Jeremy Borg exports wines under three labels called 'The Pack', 'Cape hunting range' and 'The Den'. Expect flavours as big and bold as the wild dogs sketched on the arty African labels. A percentage of profits go to Tusk , a conservation trust . I particularly enjoyed the two pioneering Cape blends - Madach 2008, a spicy, plummy assemblage of Shiraz, Pinotage, Merlot and Mour vedre - and Lekanyane 2009, an innovative Cape marriage of Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Verdelho.

Source: Article By: Mike Bampfield-Duggan, Wine Concepts
Mon, 17 May 2010 13:37
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